Maria Hines is deep in preparations for the day at Tilth, her acclaimed Seattle restaurant. Her kitchen crew towers above her, but it’s clear that she is in charge, managing the whirlwind of movement in her self-described “goat rodeo.” Staff members carrying bowls of lemons and trays of onions narrowly avoid collision, shouting warnings of “Corner!” and “Door!”

None of this fazes Hines. While she’s petite, and so is Tilth’s kitchen, her unassailable spirit is quite the opposite—as is the meat cleaver in her hand. Hines answers questions while simultaneously hacking up whole chickens faster than most people tie their shoes. The chickens are Washington-grown Rosies—organic, of course, like almost all of the ingredients she uses.

Tilth, one of only two Oregon Tilth–certified restaurants in North America, takes the seasonal, local trend to its natural conclusion. But for Hines, it isn’t about the show. It’s simply about doing the right thing for the environment, for her suppliers and for her diners.

From her as-organic-as-possible menu, to numerous appearances at local markets, to speaking on sustainability issues throughout the Seattle area, Hines is as no-nonsense when it comes to food politics as she is with a cleaver.

There’s a personal element among the political, however.

“I don’t want to have to make the same damn dishes forever,” she says as she nonchalantly sears the chicken breasts she’s been preparing. The chicken pops away in the pan, developing a perfectly lovely char. Local and seasonal means changing the menu all the time. It’s a tribute to Hines’ homey yet adventurous arrangements that diners pour in year-round for dishes like an autumn ratatouille of pepper and eggplant; a white corn terrine loaded with summer chanterelles and sweet onions; or spring pea and Parmesan risotto.

Hines is quick to credit her Puget Sound¬¬¬¬–area suppliers for much of her success. She’s built deep relationships with farms like Skagit Valley’s Skagit River Ranch and King’s Garden in Tonasket; she talks about them like old friends. Without these suppliers, she says, she couldn’t do the work she does.

She’s gone so far as to salute the farms and ranches that bring Tilth its goods with “Homage to Local Producers,” a series of four-course fixed menus showcasing her suppliers one by one.

Hines is set on keeping Tilth a great locals’ spot, the kind of place to drop in to after work when cooking at home isn’t in the cards. You aren’t likely to find lobster or prime rib on the menu. Instead, she makes the most of lesser-used cuts and fresh produce, resulting in down-to-earth dishes that make regulars out of many diners.

One of the most popular items, mini duck burgers, piles generous, juicy three-inch rounds of duck confit onto little brioche buns with house-made ketchup and fig purée. It’s the one thing that’s been on the menu since Tilth opened in its ¬Wallingford bungalow back in September 2006; like much of Hines’ food, it bridges the gap between creativity and comfort.

Back in the kitchen, Maria plates medallions of chicken with an artful little turret of her autumn ratatouille and a painted swirl of niçoise tapenade, crowning it with feather-light microgreens. The chicken is juicy and tender, the ratatouille pungent and bright. It’s unfussy and elegant, just like everything that comes from her kitchen.

Lara Ferroni is a Seattle-based food stylist, photographer and recipe writer. More of her words and images can be found at her popular food blog cookandeat.com.

Tilth Restaurant
1411 North 45th Street, Seattle, WA 98103
206.633.0801
tilthrestaurant.com

Find a recipe for Maria's lemony roast chicken and spring pea risotto on our recipes page.