“More and more people are coming out here to get those cheeses and really see where their food is coming from,” says Samish Bay Cheese owner, Roger Wechsler. Roger and his wife Suzanne have been running their 150-acre farm and dairy in rural Western Washington since 1999. Their phenomenal cheeses range from creamy aged Gouda to cheddar-style Mont Blanchard to the full flavored, hard Montasio. Each cheese’s rich flavor is a selling point but equally so is the fact that they are all certified organic, farmstead cheeses.

Visitors to the farm will quickly and intimately understand what the “farmstead” label on the company’s cheeses means. Farmstead cheeses are made right on the farm, using only milk from the farm's own herd. At Samish Bay Cheese, the mixed herd of 30 cows includes Jersey, Milking Shorthorn, Dutch Belted, and crossbreeds that can be spotted wandering their green pastures or seen up close in the milking barn. “The milk is really fresh and the [cheese] flavor is controlled because it is only our milk. We know exactly what is going into our cheese,” says Roger.

The Jersey high-butterfat milk and freshness yields a unique flavor profile. The couple also accents this milk’s favorable flavor within their Gouda line of cheeses by incorporating a variety of “mix-ins”. Over the years, they have perfected an Herb Gouda variety boasting parsley, chives, and garlic; a Cumin Gouda; a Nettle Gouda; and a Caraway Gouda.

The company’s distinct industry niche grants the Wechslers the opportunity to educate consumers about where their food comes from and how it is produced. “We educate often at the point of sale at the farmers' market where we can really provide the ‘meet the farmer’ experience. Many [customers] don’t know what Montasio is so they specifically ask what it is and how it differs from our Gouda. They want to know if it’s the culture or the cooking process and what it takes to make cheese,” says Suzanne.

Though it takes time to chat in depth about cheesemaking, it’s time the Wechslers willingly donate to customers - especially when talk turns to what makes their cheeses organic. It’s a frequent discussion for these farmers, perhaps because organic, made-in-Washington cheeses are still rare. Samish Bay Cheese was one of the first certified organic cheesemakers in the state. “There’s been a lot of growth in organic dairy in the Pacific Northwest,” says Roger. “When we got started we were the only organic dairy in this part of the state. There was another shortly after, and now there are a bunch [46 at press time]. But cheesemaking is [still] a lot to handle, especially on top of the organic thing.”

The Wechslers learned this lesson firsthand when they took over Samish Bay Cheese in 1999. Neither had any background in making cheese [Roger worked as a vegetable farmer and in the organic produce industry; Suzanne worked in the organic and natural food industry), so they first had to educate themselves for their ambitious venture.

They practiced making recipes from a book called Home Cheese Making [by Ricki Carroll] and learned a bit about the dairy farming process from the company’s previous owner. They took a short course in cheesemaking at Washington State University to further expand their knowledge base.

Today, they’ve mastered the organic cheese trade and stepped into the teaching role. They host tours on site and have also opened the dairy’s adjacent 100-year-old farmhouse as a residence for interested consumers. “We support agritourism by renting out rooms in the house. There are three rooms upstairs, and when people are here they go and see the milking and the cheesemaking. They love it, and it is totally eye-opening,” says Suzanne.

This spring at local farmers’ markets, the farm also started meeting the demand for organic, soft, fresh cheeses by adding mozzarella and feta to their line. The duo took another big leap forward this spring when they launched their plain, whole milk yogurt line at local markets. This thin yet incredibly rich yogurt sports cream on top and doesn't use any additional thickeners like guar gum or pectin, making it equally adaptable to smoothies, sauces or eating straight out of the tub.

Whether it’s yogurt or cheese, every one of their products is part of the Wechsler’s goal to keep Seattleites intrigued with local dairy.

A former Seattleite, Ashley Gartland now lives in Portland where she works as a freelance writer. She writes about food, drinks and lifestyle of the Pacific Northwest and has previously been published in Northwest Palate, Edible Portland, and Seattle Metropolitan.

Samish Bay Cheese
15115 Bow Hill Road
Bow, Wa 98232
360.766.6707
samishbaycheese.com